Share for sale, contact narrowboat.scruffy.fox@gmail.com
To prepare for the season we do the following.
Any bedding that has been taken away for cleaning and storage is returned. Replace the old curtains with the current ones if they were swapped at the start of winter.
Empty and recharge the moisture traps.
Water
Close all taps
Pull the front steps away from the door
Open the water valve - set the red handle inline with the pipe
Switch on the water pump by the galley sink
Open the taps, galley first and then the bathroom
When the water stops spluttering close the taps
Replace the front steps
Add several water purifying tablets to the tank (e.g. Aqua Midi Tabs), this protects against bacteria that may have grown during the off season.
Electricity
Disconnect the boat from marina’s electricity supply:
Unplug the shoreline cable land terminal first
Note the electricity meter reading
Switch off the battery charger
In the electrical cupboard remove the plug from the ‘shoreline’ socket and place it in the ‘inverter’ socket
Coil and stow the shoreline cable
Check the electrics (e.g. lights are working and the engine starts)
Diesel. The tank should be full. For the first few cruising weeks members don’t need to refuel. Instead they pay the cost of diesel used into funds. This continues until the fuel is down to the dipstick notch level.
In preparation for the winter we do the following.
The diesel tank should be filled full before the boat is left for the winter. This reduces the amount of air in the tank and therefore less condensation occurs which in turn reduces the chance of diesel bug. Add a double dose of diesel fuel additive to the tank (confirm this with maintenance officer).
Water
Pull the front steps away from the door
Close the water valve - set the red handle at right angle to the pipe
Lay shower head in the shower tray
Open all the taps
Switch off the water pump by the galley sink
Replace the front steps
Electricity: hook up the boat’s electrics to the shoreline provided by the marina.
In the electrical cupboard remove the plug from the ‘inverter’ socket and place it in the ‘shoreline’ socket
Plug the shoreline cable into the socket (front bulkhead of the stern deck)
Uncoil the cable and plug the other terminal into the land power supply
Check that the battery charger is on
Bedding and curtains
Ensure that the moisture traps are emptied and freshly charged
Duvets and sleeping bags should be taken off the boat and stored in a dry place over the winter and cleaned before they are returned to the boat
Curtains are removed and stored in the dry for the winter, at a member’s home. In the meantime old curtains are used instead (check under the bed for these).
The stern greaser should be turned using more pressure than normal. This will help to reduce water entering the bilge over winter.
Top up the engine coolant with neat antifreeze.
At the start of your trip please check the engine hours and fuel level and record in the logbook in case the last member ommitted or made a mistake. During the week record your journey and other observations as you wish. At the end of the week stamp the log book and fill in departing/arriving/fuel level/engine hours.
Check at least weekly
Engine oil level
Coolant level
Belts tension
Bilge below propeller shaft for water
Weed hatch
Before cruising (and reverse afterwards)
Afix the tiller
Check ropes and poles
Place life-ring on roof
At the begining of your week the portapotti will be clean and have flush water in the top tank. There are instructions on emptying and cleaning on the wall behind. It can be emptied at CRT services showing chemical toilet disposal, also at most marinas for a charge. Ensure that the toilet is emptied and cleaned before handing over. There is a second portapotti stored under the fixed bed.
Members pay for the diesel they use during their allocated weeks.
At the start of a week onboard make a note of the engine hours (displayed on the rev counter when the ignition is on) and check the diesel level in the fuel tank using the brass dipstick. Check your numbers against those written in the log books by the last member (resolve with them if there is significant discrepancy - someone’s made a mistake).
During the week a note of the time spent with heating on during, both the central heating (Eberspacher) and the Morso stove.
At the end of the week again make a note of the engine hours and the fuel level.
Calculate the diesel used: engine hours x 1.4 litres + heating hours x 0.7 litres
Check that this approximately agrees with the drop in fuel level. However be aware that the dipstick marks are not exact, the fuel tank is not a perfectly regular shape, and readings can be affected by the boat sitting unevenly.
Record the fuel level, engine hours, and fuel used in the log book.
Credit the value of the diesel used to Scruffy’s bank account. Refer to the most recent fuel price messaged in WhatsApp and in the log book by the last member refuelling. Direct message Kiran about the bank transfer.
Filling up
If when you come onboard the fuel level is near or below the notch in the brass dipstick then you should add diesel during that week if you can. In recent years it has become significantly harder to find places to refuel and it may not be possible during your week. In which case it’s fine to leave it to the following member.
The fuel tank hold about 300 litres and the notch is near 245 litres, but don’t put too much trust in the dipstick calibrations - I think there is about 50 litres between the notch and full. Fill the tank and make sure to get a receipt. The marina/boatyard may ask you to declare a split between fuel used for propulsion and that used for heating. We normally declare 60% propulsion and 40% heating.
Make a note about refuelling in the log book and on WhatsApp, include the price per litre.
At the end of the week record fuel level and engine hours as above and calculate the diesel you have used.
Direct message Kiran to request reimbursement for the fuel you bought sending him a photo of the receipt. Also credit the Scruffy Fox account for the fuel you used. Having those as two separate transactions helps to make Scruffy’s accounts easy to read.
Scruffy Fox has a water tank at the bow. It holds enough for a week of low to moderate usage. Often members fill up about twice per week.
The water pump is installed under the front stairs. It is powered from the electric circuit switched from the domestic back panel. Also the switch behind the kitchen sink needs to be set to on.
The engine heats water when running which is then stored in a hot water tank (calorifier) beneath the double bed. Note that neither the Morso stove nor the Eberspacher (central heating) heat the water in the calorifier.
The boat has bottled propane gas to fuel the cooker. Two 13kg orange Calor gas bottles are kept in the bow locker. One is IN USE and one is SPARE, labelled accordingly. When the IN USE bottle is empty we switch over to the SPARE and replace the empty bottle with a full one (the new spare). The labels can be flipped over to indicate whether the valve for that bottle is open or closed.
active gas bottle
spare gas bottle
We share the cost of gas between members so remember to reclaim the price of the replacement bottle from funds.
Switching gas bottles
Gas runs out. Unlock the bow gas locker. Identify the bottle labelled IN USE and close the top valve.
Open the top valve of the SPARE bottle and switch the labels to indicate that this is now IN USE and the valve is open.
Check the cooker has fuel again by lighting a ring. The gas supply might be a spluttery for a moment or two.
Unscrew the hose from the empty bottle using the spanner in the locker attached by a string. Note that propane gas bottles have a reverse screw so you have to turn clockwise to unscrew - the opposite direction from what you normally expect! You may need to use some force or leverage.
Post a message on the Scruffy Fox Maintenance chat saying you have switched to the spare gas bottle. You should try to replace the empty bottle if you can while onboard. Otherwise can one of the following boaters do this as soon as feasible.
Renewing the empty gas bottle
Find a marina, boatyard, or fuel boat selling gas. You need a 13kg bottle of Propane.
If you are not using a car, get the boat as near as possible to the marina / chandlers. Moor securely - you’re going to be there longer than you expect! Often the office is at the top of a rise so you’ll need a trolley to take in the empty bottle and bring back the very heavy full one.
Remove the old bottle from the bow locker. Warning: like most things ’Scruffy‘ this needs some technique; and unfortunately some brute strength! Advise you situate the non replacement bottle as far over as possible; be prepared to wiggle the empty one out.
Purchase replacement full bottle leaving the empty bottle at the marina. Remember to get a receipt.
Take the new bottle to the boat and wrestle it into the locker. You may need help as a full bottle is considerably heavier than an empty one.
Attach the hose to the new bottle using the spanner (remember to turn it anti-clockwise). Don’t overtighten.
Leave the top valve on the new bottle closed and ensure the label indicates it’s the spare.
Post a message on the Scruffy Fox Maintenance chat saying that Scruffy now has a full spare.
Reclaim the cost of the new full gas bottle.
Scruffy Fox’s engine is a Beta 38 and has a PRM 150 gearbox with a 3:1 reduction. It was installed in 2020.
The engine maintenance schedule can be found in the manual at https://betamarine.co.uk/resources/Operators_Manuals/10-115T-HE-OM/#page=52
Phil Pocock’s notes (not up to date)...
The Checks you should carry out are the same as before. That is, raise the cover & look for water / oil or both & if there’s anything odd ie a bolt lying in the bilge etc. etc. Get to ‘know’ the equipment & observe the first rule. Keep it clean. I’ve identified the Oil Dipstick with Yellow paint. It’s top front, of engine on the Port side. Coolant level warning alarm is as before Green lamp & buzzer. If it illuminates & buzzes. Stop engine, check for leaks & if there is nothing untoward just ‘top up’ with a 50/50 mix of antifreeze & water. Please don’t just add water.
In place of the isolator that switched that there is now a straight forward On/ Off switch. It Isolates all the domestic 12 volt equipment.
The main Isolator below that will shut off both the 240 volt Inverter & the 12volt supply. You must have both switches on to supply 12 volts Only the main isolator needs to be on for the inverter + of course the remote wall switch. That is it,really, controls are all in the same place, different but doing the same job. One important difference to note though on the instrument panel. There is a dedicated stop button. You obviously push that & it operates a solenoid that stops the engine. Then click key to Off position.
The stern greaser is a brass tube with a wind down piston. It is sited above and to the side of the propeller shaft and is accessed from the stern hatch. Its purpose is to force grease into the propeller shaft to make it water tight.
Each day that the boat is used a little additional grease should be pushed into the shaft by rotating the screw about a quarter or half a turn, perhaps more if you’ve forgotten to do it recently. You should turn the handle until there is moderate resistance. Doing this helps to stop water accumulating in the chamber below the propeller shaft. It is easier to do soon after cruising when the grease is warm and flows more easily.
Over time the stern greaser will become empty and need to be refilled. To do this unscrew the cylinder from its base and add more grease from the pot stored nearby. A flat bladed knife is a useful tool for this. Try to ensure that no air pockets are left in the grease. Then screw the cylinder back in place.
There is a plastic tub below the propeller shaft that catches excess grease. This needs to be emptied from time to time.
All rust spots should be treated with fertan. It’s straightforward, apply a coating of the liquid with a paint brush and then clean the brush with water. The fertan will stop the spread of the rust and allow it to be painted over later.
(to-do: add link to video)
The boat has two heating systems. The first is a Lockgate/Morsø diesel fired Squirrel stove that heats the bow cabin directly and redistributes some heat, by convection, to radiators along the starboard side. This system is excellent for background warmth and has the advantages of being quiet and not requiring electricity.
Secondly, there is a pumped Eberspacher diesel fired boiler supplying radiators around the boat. This system operates like a home central heating system, it can control temperatures automatically and heats the boat fairly quickly. The Eberspacher is switched on from the domestic electric panel at the stern. It can be conrolled by the wall thermostat in the stern cabin. It requires electricity to run and may need the engine running to start if the batteries are not fully charged or are in poor condition. If that is the case it should still be possible to switch off the engine once the Eberspacher has comleteted its start phase (approx 2 minutes).
IMPORTANT: You must NOT run the Morsø and the Eberspacher at the same time.
When the boat has a shoreline supply attached the water in the calorifier tank can be heated by electric immersion heater. There is a switch in the rear electrics cupboard for this.
Lighting the Morsø stove
ensure external chimney is in place
break off a piece of firelighter
open the door and remove the circular metal tube
set the flow dial to 1
set the front trip switch to ON (down)
set the red fuel lever to horizontal
light the firelighter and place in the base of the stove using tongs
replace the tube using the tongs if necessary
close the door
(to-do: add link to video)
The inverter is attached to the bulkhead wall behind the back steps.
It provides the boat with 240v electricity powering all the standard sockets including their associated USB sockets.
To switch it on use the small black remote switch on the starboard wall in the back cabin.
We normally leave the inverter off and only switch it on for times when 240v is required, say for the TV. If it is left on for long it may drain the leisure batteries even when no 240v devices are being used.
Shoreline RR47-MC-FF 12/24V.
Bought from Midland Chandlers July 2023, £719.
81 litres total capacity
7 litre freezer box
heavy duty interior (suitable for hire boats)
interior LED light
low voltage warning LED (the fridge switches off when the battery supply is too low)
To power the fridge both the labeled switch on the stern domestic panel and the switch near the fridge above the work surface must be on. Both of these should be switched off when a member leaves the boat at the end of an allocated week.
The fridge struggles in very hot weather. Don't be tempted to turn the dial, it doesn't help and can cause the compressor to cut out, it's best to keep the dial at 1 or 2.
Please empty and clean the fridge interior at the end of your trip and leave the door ajar; use a tea towel or similar to wedge it open.
Phones and tablets can be charged from the USB sockets throughout the boat.
At the front (to the right of the door) and in the back cabin (electrics cupboard) there are small black dual USB sockets and there are USB sockets on the bedrom reading lights. All of these are continually powered by the leisure batteries.
All of the 240v sockets in the boat have USB charge points too. However these are only powered when the inverter is switched on.
The TV at the bow end of the lounge is 240v. To use it the inverter must be switched on.
It is not possible to watch live TV channels over the air as the ariel system (pole, ariel, booster) has been removed. However it can be used to watch DVDs using the integral player. You may find a few DVDs onboard but best to bring your own along.